This simple, tiny shop, hidden in an alley, has about nine seats along a counter, and wood paneling that looks like it’s been around since the 1960s. The menu is even simpler: gyoza (pork and leek pan-fried dumplings) and beer. That’s it. Both are 600 yen (about $7.50) and both are worth it. The gyoza (a generous 15 to a plate) have a gentle chewiness on the bottom wrapper, an airy filling and a top like crunchy lace where they sat in the oil. Dip them in a shallow saucer with a mix of soy sauce, rice vinegar and chili oil. You pretty much need the beer too because they arrive piping-hot.
